As I write this, war rages in Gaza, where some 200-plus hostages from Israel, the U.S., and elsewhere are being held captive. There are numerous Gazan casualties, spurring large pro-Palestinian rallies throughout the world. It feels as if worldwide support of Israel is waning, while antisemitism is on the rise.
It is a terribly difficult time for many of us at CBS, and it’s important to recognize that and to continue to come together as a congregation and be supportive as best we can. We have congregants who have lost family members and treasured friends on that day and since, which explains why, to show our continued support, at our synagogue we have installed an empty Shabbat table to honor those being held captive, along with the posters identifying them by name, something I find simultaneously moving and haunting.
With antisemitic acts increasing throughout Europe, occurring in a climate of growing fear among Jews living there, this absolutely was not the time to travel overseas. But months before October 7, Robert was asked and accepted an invitation to speak at a big international conference, so we were committed to travel to Bucharest, with a stop in Paris on our return trip home.
Knowing we cannot live in fear, and cannot hide, we made the trip, determined to be particularly watchful and vigilant while we were away. Our visit to both cities proved illuminating.
It's estimated that over 700,000 Jews lived in Romania before World War II; today that number has been reduced to an aging Jewish population ranging somewhere between 2,000 and 7,000. Of some 1,000 synagogues that existed before the war, fewer than 100 remain, with Jews emigrating to Israel and the U.S.
Due to the “current situation,” the few synagogues that remain in Bucharest are closed to the public, with a ubiquitous, machine-gun-carrying police presence stationed out front. Even the Holocaust Museum, which is housed in the Great Synagogue of Bucharest, is not immune and remains closed. Antisemitism certainly continues to be a problem here, but to our relief we didn’t experience it firsthand. If anything, the opposite was true; everywhere we went, people uniformly friendly, accommodating, and helpful.
The highlight of our guided tour of Jewish history was a visit to the Bucharest State Jewish Theater, the only Yiddish theater still existing throughout the world, funded by the Bucharest municipality. Almost all the actors and its production manager -- the charmingly well-informed and patient tour guide, George-Marcel DRĂGHICI -- are not Jewish, but their love of and appreciation for Yiddish theater, combined with the support of the renowned Romanian- Jewish actor Maia Morgenstern, keeps the tradition alive.
Paris, as always, was beautiful. Although there were and continue to be very large pro-Palestinian demonstrations, we didn’t feel particularly at risk. What was especially heartening were the roughly 100,000 people in Paris who marched this past Sunday in opposition to antisemitism – with many participants not being Jewish -- counterbalancing some of the pro-Palestinian activity we’re witnessing.
Although we did not feel the threat of discrimination, recrimination, or violence, this likely has not been the case for French Jews, most of whom are Orthodox or Conservative in their practice and faith, more likely to wear Kipot, payot, tzitzit, or wigs in public. Antisemitism remains a growing problem, with large numbers of French Jews emigrating to Israel as a consequence.
We love Paris, but not necessarily Parisian cuisine, which explains why we chose to eat at Vendredi Soir, a relatively new Jewish/Moroccan restaurant, along with Shabour, one of the hottest dining spots in Paris, with an Israeli owner/chef that offers an imaginative and inventive Jerusalem-inspired tasting menu. We detected no increased security presence at either location.
I thought long and hard about hiding my Magen David while in Bucharest and Paris, but did not, something for which I am grateful. That said, events in Israel continue to weigh heavily on me as we returned home, which leads me to end this message with a heartfelt, hopeful Am Israel Chai.
I hope to see (and hug) all of you very soon; until next time,
B’ Shalom,
Roberta |
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